![]() It is also elevated like that above the bars on purpose as the higher up I could get it, the larger swath of pavement I could light up.Original coupon only. Thats why I angled it back, which only solved about 90% of the problem. If I had wanted to (and it needed it) I could have connected the two via zip ties as the light assembly was heavy so a good solid bump would move it forward some. The assembly also braced itself against the separate handlebar extension that I used to mount my second display (2wd bike so dual displays, one per motor). I did need to use the rubber spacers to fill in for the handlebars being smaller but they were included with the bar mounts. n Zoom in on the leftmost pic and you can see the two bolts just above the Jones label on the handlebars. Just barely wide enough so I could take those two mounts, jammed side by side, and slide two bolts thru, clamping the light to them both so I had a very wide base of contact both on the light and the bar. Jammed them together side by side, the mount on the light is a big wide slot. Set to eco mode which is a sharp, short flash. Thats where the blinkie goes, separated from the main beams so it doesn't get drowned out. This is a $50 total solution.Īlso, look down in the lower right corner. As such, I have one good bright beam forming the point of a spear, and two more beams widening out my field of vision - this kind of flexibility is why I no longer bother to try and solve a lighting need with just one unit. They're cheap, bright with good beam patterns and the battery is decently long lasting when set to its low value (which is plenty when used as a supplement like this). It is flanked by two $15 Blitzu Gator 390's that are also set one click outboard. Like the Niteriders it is also detachable for use as a hand light and has so much capacity it can be used as a power bank for your cell phone (a USB plug is included on it). Branded by Victagen but sold under multiple names. On a different bike that sees more use in rural areas, I do the same thing in back, but in the front I use my sort of new favorite economy beam. At US$65 it too is pricey but a hospital visit costs more. ![]() The excellent Bontrager Flare RT has an irregular blink built into it as well and I have one of those on a different bike. Note the Knog Blinder checkerboard version has a mode that is a form of an irregular blink that studies have shown are more noticeable than a regular blink. A Big Cobber set to eco mode is my blinker. Two Knog square-type Blinders are my solids. Recently I graduated up to Knog lights, which are the brightest I can find - but they cost. A center blinkie and two solids as wide apart as I can put them. All my lights are used daily and all of them have to be daybright as I use them for running/warning lights day and night.īlinkies increase the conspicuity (I was surprised: thats a real word) of a rider but studies have shown they also degrade a motorist's ability to track your motion. Instead I do cordless rechargeable lights and, once per week, when I get to the office I charge them all up in the morning on a USB hub. In addition to all the wiring you have to use and hide, you handicap yourself mightily by limiting your options to lights like that, which are nowhere near state of the art for bike lighting. I've got juice-box-sized 52v 6ah packs that are perfect for this job, where they make for gigantic capacity for a headlight, and I still have dropped the concept. I have gotten away from trying to mess with 48/52v powered lights. Bright and wide beam, but not a great headlight for busy traffic as it doesn't have a proper horizon cutoff line. I use this for the trails and rainy days when the stock light doesn't cut it. A third option if you have a USB port on your battery or bike is a simple accessory light like this to supplement the stock lights. If all of that terrifies you, just stick with the separate battery option. Either run a light that can easily take the full voltage of your output line, or better yet, add a small DC-DC converter to provide a nice consistent 12v or 24v matched to your light of choice. A fuse is also necessary insurance against a frayed wire down the road. ![]() Best bet, find an existing plug inline on an appropriate output, and buy/make a splitter to plug in that spot that splices right in the connector. Don't use blade style taps or economy twist/crimp connections in a high voltage/high amperage line or you'll just create resistance and heat. ![]() Click to expand.Certainly safer than potentially voiding your warranty, but if that's not an issue for you, tapping into a 48v line is not that big a deal if you or a trustworthy and capable friend can splice and solder a quality connection.
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